Christmas in Alsace, the magic wonderland
Christmas in Alsace, the magic wonderland
You have probably already heard of the Alsace region without having any idea where it is situated and, like most people, question whether it is a French or German region.
Alsace is one of the smaller regions in France in the North-East of the hexagon, separated from its the German neighbour by the natural Rhin River. The coloured towns and villages, rolling countryside striped with vines invite visitors to know more about its century’s old traditions.
All year around, Alsace welcomes you to share its incredible history, traditional lifestyle, but it is at Christmastime (from the end of November) that you will embrace the warmth and generosity of locals for a magical atmosphere.
A Christmas experience that will make you dream
Every year for centuries, children and families in Alsace are excitedly waiting for this time of the year to express their love for Christmas traditions. Like many celebrations in France, but especially in Alsace, the Christmas food preparations are signs the biggest celebration of the year is soon approaching. You should also drink some vin chaud (mulled wine), which is prepared using family recipes and surprisingly, it is often made with local white wine such as Sylvaner or Riesling. On the 6th of December, children wake up early to wait for Saint Nicolas who, according to the tales, protects children from the Père Fouettard, who is well-known for prisoning children in a barrel. But children’s favourite tradition is to receive a mannala on this day, a brioche shaped like the Saint, paired with a cup of hot chocolate. Families compete for the best home-made bredeles (shortbreads) and gingerbread, beerawecka (dry fruit bread) and other amazing generous dishes are only a few food specialities of the Christmas tradition in Alsace.
Yes, there is Christmas markets in Rio, Moscow or New York, but there are definitely not as traditional and authentic as in Alsace. Did you know that the first Marché de Noel (Christmas market) was held in 1570 in Strasbourg? Are you convinced now?
Strasbourg is quite a spectacle in the early evening, when the lights begin to dazzle in the dark. As you walk through the city at night, you will be amazed by its several thematic markets and the 10 centuries-old Notre Dame Cathedral.
Where to stay to live an authentic experience
You will probably have read a lot of tips about December in Alsace and how many months in advance you must book to ensure you get the privilege of being part of the feast. This is not incorrect, but the reason is also that most of the visitors stay in the most well-known and touristic places such as Colmar or Strasbourg. However, why not make the winemaking village of Barr your camp for your time in Alsace. Having lived in Alsace for almost 40 years, I discovered last year during my gourmet tour in Alsace the 5 Terres, which is a small gem hotel with an amazing and affordable lunch menu prepared by a young enthusiast chefs brigade. It could be the perfect spot for your next holiday! Kaysersberg or Ribeauvillé, which are located along the route des Vins, or a tiny village on the Vosges mountain slopes could also offer you gorgeous AIRBNB or homestay accommodations. These places are much more central to all the Christmas activities you will want to experience during your stay and will ensure you stay in the truly authentic Alsatian spots, as each village has its own unique charm.
Best secret places off the beaten track in Alsace
You can’t miss a visit to Strasbourg during the week, as the atmosphere is much more intimate than during the weekend. At sunset time, start at Kleber place with its sapin de Noel (Christmas tree), which is harvested each year in the nearest Vosges mountain. Then, you will have the choice between several markets all around the city but reserve yourself some time to visit the most secret one, the market of the passionate producers. Situated on the narrow place des Meuniers, come here to taste some of the most authentic preparations such as foie gras, snails, gingerbread and local wine, and have a chat with committed producers.
While only 20 minutes away from Strasbourg, the Obernai gingerbread village is dedicated to gastronomy and crafts. People here are tremendously friendly and keep the Christmas market a very traditional soul.
Another Alsatian town with a relatively tiny market you should visit is Eguisheim. There’re garlands of twinkly lights draped gracefully over trees, colourful timbered houses and picturesque street circles around the town’s central square, Place du Château Saint-Leon. It is one of my favourite spots to fill my luggage with locally made presents.
Mulhouse Christmas Market, in the South Alsace is not the most well-known market, but still full of charm. With a century of textile fabric and unique designs, you can purchase amazing tablecloths and different linen articles. Do not miss the opportunity to taste in one of the local wines stubs the famous Fleischnacka speciality. Literally "snails of meat" a dish consisting of minced of left over beef pot-au-feu, rolled in fresh noodle dough and cut into slices which are then cooked in stock. What a memory!
The Eco-Museum d’Alsace situated between Colmar and Mulhouse is the hidden gem Christmas experience. France's largest open-air museum, the Eco-musée d'Alsace resembles an Alsatian village from the beginning of the 20th century and promotes the rural heritage, introducing you to the popular Arts and Traditions of the region.
The Alsace Eco-museum is open from the end of November until the beginning of January for the Christmas season. The village is entirely decorated and there are even more activities to take part in, such as bredala-making workshop, a workshop to make Christmas tree decorations in recycled materials or even gingerbread making. The Eco-museum also offers a special show-route called “Rêves et veillées”, a guided walk in the nocturnal streets of the village.
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